By Abby Watkins
News Editor
And Rose Graner
Entertainment Editor
“Umami” is the Japanese concept of a “fifth flavor” (the others being sweet, salty, sour and bitter) that patrons find in hearty, meaty foods.
Although umami is a concept that chefs have been familiar with and accepted as legitimate for many years now, it has only recently begun to become part of Western food culture.
Umami Burger in Hollywood is one of the first restaurants in the Los Angeles area to focus heavily upon the umami flavor. Its seemingly simple concept belies a host of rare and fascinating flavor combinations.
Take, for instance, the Earth Burger. Its individual components, mushroom and edamame patty, soy aioli and truffle ricotta, sound like a purposeful antithesis to the common notion of burgers. However, when combined, these elements create a flavorful, complex and distinctly umami flavor that is wholly unique to the restaurant.
The side dishes offered at Umami Burger tend to be more familiar than their entrees but are nevertheless unique and unexpected in their own way. For example, sweet potato fries are a staple at many restaurants, but the cinnamon seasoning that Umami Burger adds to them (rather than salt) gives the dish an interesting twist.
The Umami Burger menu consists of a unique selection of burgers and sandwiches ($9 to $11 apiece), sides like tempura onion rings and house pickles ($3 to $5 apiece), and various nonalcoholic beverages and desserts (all in the $2 to $5 range). A number of meals ($14 to $17 each) that each include a burger, side and a choice of beverage are also available.
There is a prevailing notion amongst some that in order to truly appreciate cuisine, patrons must take a highbrow attitude toward it. Bacon, for example, can be consumed copiously, but only if accompanied by a proper amount of self-aggrandizing irony.
Salads are delightful, but those that involve iceberg lettuce or a dressing that isn’t a vinaigrette should be scoffed at. Baked goods are tasty, yes, but they are also subject to trends. (Pies are the current craze; cupcakes are so two years ago.)
On the contrary, Umami Burger has a near-universal appeal. Its somewhat esoteric concept (as well as the fact, in and of itself, that Umami Burger is a concept eatery) is carried out with such attention to flavor as well as aesthetic that the restaurant is enticing to both the all-too-common brand of Los Angeles food snobbery and a simple interest in good, hearty cuisine alike.
The four Umami Burger restaurants are located in the greater Los Angeles area. They can be found on La Brea Ave., Hollywood Blvd., North Cahuenga Blvd., and Broadway in Santa Monica. All locations are open at 11 or 11:30 a.m. Refer to www.umamiburger.com for more information.
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